Famous for producing gloves of a superior nature, in 1937 the town of Saint Junien witnessed the birth of the glove firm Agnelle.
Today, the know-how so endemic to this firm is known and admired the world over. The workshops (the same since 1937) continue to be scented with their distinct smell. Some things just never change!
The Choice of Hide
Once selected, the hide is moistened and then dusted with talc. It is now ready to be worked on – the hide is slowly stretched along the lentgh of the cutting table. This gentle act of streching provides the skin with a natural elasticity and helps eradicate any slight scarring or blemishes that might be evident.
The Cutting
Next the cutter traces out a square in chalk on the leather surface from which the glove will be cut. Four types of pattern pieces require placement – the hand (front and back), the thumb and the interconnection between the fingers.
Disregarding rough patches, the cutter selects the best grain, the best areas of the skin.
The Slot
Once the basic square is cut out with scissors, each individual pattern piece corresponding to its specific pattern is cut out separately. In doing so the shape of the glove is defined – short, long, cuffed, faced – by the pieces chosen.
Each component is then numbered. At this stage in production the unassembled glove is sent to the sewing workrooms.
The Sewing Workshop
Here it immediately undergoes a quality control process to verify the harmony between the leather’s grains and the directions of the component pieces between the hand, the finger interconnections, and whatever other parts may be required.
Once all pieces are checked the sewing process, which is realized by hand or by machine, can begin.
During this stage of manufacture the finishes used are determined – covered seam, saddle stitch, ” brosser ” out seam faced folds, raw edges, topstitching on the back of the hand, embroidery, and metal detailing, all of which are put in place before the ultimate assembly takes place.
The Lining
The lining which is generally in silk jersey is also put in place. A veritable glove in its own right, the lining is sewn to the end of each finger and is attached by hand at the wrist.
The glove is now almost finished.
Final Stage: Placement of the Glove on a Heated Hand Form
The glove is placed on a heated hand form. On the hand the glove is smothered out. This simple operation gives the glove its final form as all traces of manufacturing interference become radically erased.
In total around one hundred different processes and over five hours are necessary for the manufacturelle of a single Agnelle glove.